Which Intake and DV?

[Phalcon_Mojo]

I am going to be getting an intake and DV, but not sure what to get (or where to go).

My friend recommended the EVO CAI and the EVO Billet DV from evoms.com.

I know everyone had different preferences, so I am open to all suggestions. And I know this has probably been posted a thousand times before, but bare with me please... too lazy to search. :D

[Phalcon_Mojo]

BTW,

I am not just in this for the sound, though it would be cool to have it (though not anything overly annoying).

[creanium]

As far as I know, AEM's CAI is CARB-legal, as is Injen's, if that's important to you. Would save you having to take off the intake every time you take the car to get smogged, and a cop won't give you crap if you get stopped and he pops your hood.

Regarding DV, I got nothin.

[paultakeda]

There are two types of DV: piston and diaphragm. Most aftermarket DVs are piston drive, which can have a slower response than the stock diaphargm but, being a solid piston, is near-indestructible. Aftermarket diaphragm types are few, one of them is what I've got, the Greddy Type-S with a DV adapter (it's also a blow-off valve).

If the car is heavily or even oddly modified, having an adjustable DV, either by screw (Greddy) or by switching out springs (any of the pistons can have switched out springs, though some specialize like the Forge Race), is a good idea for tuning the DV to match the car.

Piston drives require cleaning and re-oiling maintenance (except for fully sealed units like the Bailey). Diaphragm types require less maintenance, but the diaphragm could tear, requiring a replacement.

All aftermarket DVs are quite good. Stock DVs since 2003 are also good, and only suffer if the car is spiking over 19psi.

Intakes, on the other hand, have a less solid reputation. Many claim gains and show data. Many claim no gains or even losses and show data. The point is that you can certainly improve the intake to a certain degree, but the problem is that these intakes are addressing a part of the intake that isn't all that restrictive.

The stock paper filter accounts for perhaps 2% of your negative boost, with an aftermarket like K&N dropping it to 1%. Is that worth the cost and maintenace (plus potential frying of your MAF sensor)? Up to you.

The intake prior to the airbox probably only accounts for less than 25% of negative boost, so yes, improving this will get you some gains. The best bang for buck is to use dryer hose ducting. Pretty pipes will cost more with little improvement compared to ugly ducting, so this again is up to you.

The airbox itself is maybe 5-7%, it's really not worth messing with unless you replace the entire pre-MAF with something like an Iceman unit. That's a lot of money.

The truth is the one component you can't mess with is also the one component that severely affects your intake: the MAF sensor housing. That little plastic tube with its screens and the sensor smack dab in the middle is to blame for almost half your negative boost, and there isn't a damn thing you can do about it without substantial modifications to your intake system.

The last bit is the piping between the MAF and the turbo inlet. This is about the same as the pipe prior to the airbox, and you can improve it to some degree with a larger pipe, either custom-built by your local mechanic or buying the Neuspeed TIP.

Most improvements to the intake can be done on the cheap, with parts purchased from Home Depot or contracting a mechanic to fashion out some piping. So unlike a DV, which you can't really improvise on yourself, with a brand name CAI you're paying for the looks more than the function.

[GoodIntentions]

There are two types of DV: piston and diaphragm. Most aftermarket DVs are piston drive, which can have a slower response than the stock diaphargm but, being a solid piston, is near-indestructible. Aftermarket diaphragm types are few, one of them is what I've got, the Greddy Type-S with a DV adapter (it's also a blow-off valve).

If the car is heavily or even oddly modified, having an adjustable DV, either by screw (Greddy) or by switching out springs (any of the pistons can have switched out springs, though some specialize like the Forge Race), is a good idea for tuning the DV to match the car.

Piston drives require cleaning and re-oiling maintenance (except for fully sealed units like the Bailey). Diaphragm types require less maintenance, but the diaphragm could tear, requiring a replacement.

All aftermarket DVs are quite good. Stock DVs since 2003 are also good, and only suffer if the car is spiking over 19psi.

Intakes, on the other hand, have a less solid reputation. Many claim gains and show data. Many claim no gains or even losses and show data. The point is that you can certainly improve the intake to a certain degree, but the problem is that these intakes are addressing a part of the intake that isn't all that restrictive.

The stock paper filter accounts for perhaps 2% of your negative boost, with an aftermarket like K&N dropping it to 1%. Is that worth the cost and maintenace (plus potential frying of your MAF sensor)? Up to you.

The intake prior to the airbox probably only accounts for less than 25% of negative boost, so yes, improving this will get you some gains. The best bang for buck is to use dryer hose ducting. Pretty pipes will cost more with little improvement compared to ugly ducting, so this again is up to you.

The airbox itself is maybe 5-7%, it's really not worth messing with unless you replace the entire pre-MAF with something like an Iceman unit. That's a lot of money.

The truth is the one component you can't mess with is also the one component that severely affects your intake: the MAF sensor housing. That little plastic tube with its screens and the sensor smack dab in the middle is to blame for almost half your negative boost, and there isn't a damn thing you can do about it without substantial modifications to your intake system.

The last bit is the piping between the MAF and the turbo inlet. This is about the same as the pipe prior to the airbox, and you can improve it to some degree with a larger pipe, either custom-built by your local mechanic or buying the Neuspeed TIP.

Most improvements to the intake can be done on the cheap, with parts purchased from Home Depot or contracting a mechanic to fashion out some piping. So unlike a DV, which you can't really improvise on yourself, with a brand name CAI you're paying for the looks more than the function.

Now that's what I call 'dropping knowledge'! :D :tup:

[Phalcon_Mojo]

There are two types of DV: piston and diaphragm. Most aftermarket DVs are piston drive, which can have a slower response than the stock diaphargm but, being a solid piston, is near-indestructible. Aftermarket diaphragm types are few, one of them is what I've got, the Greddy Type-S with a DV adapter (it's also a blow-off valve).

If the car is heavily or even oddly modified, having an adjustable DV, either by screw (Greddy) or by switching out springs (any of the pistons can have switched out springs, though some specialize like the Forge Race), is a good idea for tuning the DV to match the car.

Piston drives require cleaning and re-oiling maintenance (except for fully sealed units like the Bailey). Diaphragm types require less maintenance, but the diaphragm could tear, requiring a replacement.

All aftermarket DVs are quite good. Stock DVs since 2003 are also good, and only suffer if the car is spiking over 19psi.

Intakes, on the other hand, have a less solid reputation. Many claim gains and show data. Many claim no gains or even losses and show data. The point is that you can certainly improve the intake to a certain degree, but the problem is that these intakes are addressing a part of the intake that isn't all that restrictive.

The stock paper filter accounts for perhaps 2% of your negative boost, with an aftermarket like K&N dropping it to 1%. Is that worth the cost and maintenace (plus potential frying of your MAF sensor)? Up to you.

The intake prior to the airbox probably only accounts for less than 25% of negative boost, so yes, improving this will get you some gains. The best bang for buck is to use dryer hose ducting. Pretty pipes will cost more with little improvement compared to ugly ducting, so this again is up to you.

The airbox itself is maybe 5-7%, it's really not worth messing with unless you replace the entire pre-MAF with something like an Iceman unit. That's a lot of money.

The truth is the one component you can't mess with is also the one component that severely affects your intake: the MAF sensor housing. That little plastic tube with its screens and the sensor smack dab in the middle is to blame for almost half your negative boost, and there isn't a damn thing you can do about it without substantial modifications to your intake system.

The last bit is the piping between the MAF and the turbo inlet. This is about the same as the pipe prior to the airbox, and you can improve it to some degree with a larger pipe, either custom-built by your local mechanic or buying the Neuspeed TIP.

Most improvements to the intake can be done on the cheap, with parts purchased from Home Depot or contracting a mechanic to fashion out some piping. So unlike a DV, which you can't really improvise on yourself, with a brand name CAI you're paying for the looks more than the function.

Very informative, thanks.

I have heard good thinks about the HKS BOV. Can it be recirculated like the Greddy?

[EDM]

Very informative, thanks.

I have heard good thinks about the HKS BOV. Can it be recirculated like the Greddy?

Yes they are good but you would need to get the recirculation kit for it.