Can I get a mechanical wizards opinion before I buy a $500 brake booster

[ncttrnl]

Okay so I'm about to buy a $500 dollar OEM brake booster for my car and I wanted to see what other people with more experience thought before I did this.

Here is a recap of the symptoms...

Pedal is solid. It doesn't move.
Brakes are solid and don't really release.

Last thing done that could possibly affect the system was a brake system flush with a motive power bleeder about 3 weeks before this happened.

About 3 days before this happened, I experienced a little lessened braking power and the need to really push the pedal to slow down at one light. It only happened once.

I'm thinking the brake booster lost a seal and now is just stuck on... do any of the mechanical gurus have an opinion on this?

[bugzy]

you talk to Nick?

[ncttrnl]

you talk to Nick?

Not yet. I wanna take a crack at it first. I may call him up for his opinion but I don't like to bother him if I don't have to.

[MikekiM]

Turn the car off, step on pedal, turn on on. Does the pedal sink slightly?

When the car is on, and you press the brake, does the engine RPM change?
Also check your check valve into the booster.

[ncttrnl]

Turn the car off, step on pedal, turn on on. Does the pedal sink slightly?

When the car is on, and you press the brake, does the engine RPM change?

Pedal doesn't move in any significant amount

RPM is pretty steady

[BuffysRS4]

can you pull the pedal back up or is it stuck; if you can pull t back up it's hydraulic if not and it doesn't move then it's mechanical

[Tom (aka Godzilla)]

Maybe it's just the master cylinder and not the whole booster.

[ncttrnl]

can you pull the pedal back up or is it stuck; if you can pull t back up it's hydraulic if not and it doesn't move then it's mechanical

Can't pull it back up because its already up. It doesn't go down.

[mike]

check the valve, also pull the line out of it and look inside to see if the inside of the booster has rust or water, in it, this can happen sometimes. to me it sounds like a frozen booster.

the brake flush wouldn't effect anything unless you mixed dot 4 fluid with dot 5 silicone based fluid as it makes a jelly like consistancy, but you could tell that by looking in the brake resivor.

Before you order one from a dealer, have someone check with world-pac or SSF, you might be able to save a hundred bucks or more...........................

[BuffysRS4]

are all 4 brakes locked? did you chk the ABS module? pull the plug on the module and see if that releases the system.

[ncttrnl]

are all 4 brakes locked? did you chk the ABS module? pull the plug on the module and see if that releases the system.

All 4 are locked.

I thought ABS failing would cause the brakes not to function but I can give it a shot.

[BuffysRS4]

any luck yet Tony?

[ncttrnl]

Not really.

I didn't get as much time to work on the car this weekend as I would have liked. I'm actually at the point now where ABS may not matter too much. I can switch to the 034efi standalone for about $2k and ditch the ABS altogether if I put in a proportioning valve of some sort where the ABS used to be.

Here's what I did accomplish... had nothing to do with the brakes but it made me feel better and the TT is much roomier now.

http://ncttrnl.com/albums/random/noseatts.jpeg

[BuffysRS4]

so I'm assuming it was the ABS module?