Dyno Test - ABD Quick Flow install on 2.0 Golf

[daygoVR6]

THE QUEST FOR POWER
AND KNOWLEDGE

Words and photos: Brad Harvey - daygoVR6 socaleuro.com

When people start modifying their car for better engine performance most modifications start simple. An aftermarket intake system, changing the exhaust piping and muffler for something that flows more air are typically the first things to be swapped out. The true question in our quest for power is are these modifications actually working? Most small modifications on engines don’t usually result in a major change in horsepower unless you are on a racetrack or a dynamometer to view the actual results.

Strapping another one on, the Dyno Shop staff prepare John's Golf for a run

Our test subject for this article is John Tagle’s MKIV Golf, with the factory 2.0 liter 8 valve four-cylinder engine. Most VW enthusiasts don’t refer to these cars as having very much potential when it comes to horsepower numbers since they are more designed for economy and gas mileage when compared to their 1.8T and VR6 predecessors. We decided to put it to the test and see if the modifications we are doing are actually creating more horsepower and torque, or if our hard earned dollars should have gone elsewhere. Our testing was done at the Dyno Shop in Santee, California where we strapped the car onto a Dyno Jet machine to get our test results. Dyno Jet dynamometers specifically measure the horsepower from the drive wheels of the car by calculating the rate the vehicle's drive wheels turn the large rollers they sit on while the it is accelerated up through its RPM range. Our test results came from running the car in 3rd gear to give the most accurate results possible for this test.

Here is the engine bay without the ABD unit installed

John’s MKIV already has the aid of an aftermarket Magnaflow cat-back exhaust system to help reduce back pressure and help reveal some extra ponies. In this test we are taking out the stock intake box and installing an ABD Quick Flow intake system (part number 70.Q80.) The system is installed by removing the stock air cleaner assembly along with the air filter and replacing it with the ABD unit which, includes a high-flow air filter and air intake pipe that attaches to the mass air flow unit along with an aluminum mount for stability. Installation time takes around 30 minutes and easily done in your garage with some simple hand tools.

After a short amount of wrench time the stock air cleaner assembly was removed and replaced with the ABD Quick Flow Intake

Our first run on the dyno was to establish a baseline number before we went ahead and installed the ABD unit. The Golf gave a horsepower number of 104.2 with 115.3 ft. lbs of torque. Not bad for a basically stock engine with a cat back exhaust system. Once the engine was brought back down to idle and cooled off, three pairs of hands removed the stock air cleaner housing and filter and installed the ABD Quick Flow unit. Installation was pretty easy with the three of us and we still had some time to spare to let the engine cool down a bit more before making another dyno pull. What happened next baffled even the guys from the Dyno Shop facility. After a healthy run in 3rd gear again for the second go around with the ABD system we actually lost two horsepower with a final number of 102.6 horsepower and a torque curve toping out at 111.8. Although, if you look closely at the two dyno runs and take a look at the air/fuel ratio curve at the bottom of the dyno sheet, (see copy or dyno run sheet at bottom of page) you can see with the ABD unit installed the MAF was reading the extra air flow into the engine and telling the on board ECU to dump excess fuel into the combustion chamber. This was adversly causing an overly “rich� condition causing our loss in horsepower. The remedy for this would be either an adjustable fuel pressure regulator to help stabilize the amount of fuel flow thru the engines fuel rail or possibly an aftermarket chip or re-tuned ECU.

Here is our test subject with the ABD unit in place of the factory air cleaner assembly

The proof is in the numbers. (see copy of dyno sheet at bottom) ABD does make a good unit I was impressed with the ease of installation especially for those that don’t know what they are looking at when it comes to being under the hood of the car. The ABD Quick Flow intake system is priced on their web site for $169.95 under part number 70.Q80. Our testing did leave us wondering what kind of results we would have gotten if we tested out ABD’s Big Bore Intake pipe mated with their Quick Flow system we tested here.

ABD
Autobahn Designs
www.abdracing.com
2900 Adams St. Suite B-27
Riverside, CA 92504
Phone: 951-351-9566
Fax: 951-351-9575

The Dyno Shop
www.thedynoshop.com
10042 Prospect Ave,
Santee, Ca. 92071
Phone (619) 562-3933
Fax (619) 562-2068
Toll free (888) DYNO SHOP

Here is a copy of the dyno run sheet, red lines are with the ABD Quick flow, blue lines are with the stock air cleaner installed

[mike]

I've always stood my ground when it comes to open element filters, TT did a test awhile back and the results were the same, open elements loose power, I have found that a stock airbox with a drop-in and the fenderwell side cutout with a jigsaw provide much better results and are free (except for the K&N)

Open element cone filters were designed for desert off road racing where they had 3-4 times the filtering surface area and thus took longer to plug up with dust and silt. someone had the bright idea of putting them on cars in a sealed engine compartment where they can suck up all the hot engine compartment air they want.

I need to dyno my ABA again, I havent after the TT exhaust and cam was installed, but before that with only a chip & K&N drop in it did 110HP and 118ftlbs at the wheels on eurosports dyno

[ncttrnl]

Cool review. Thaks Brad (DaygoVR6) and John (Lunchbox)!

One thing I would point out though is that no one was there with a VAG. Because the cars adapt their fuel trims over time, it could be that the car will pick up a couple horsepower after it adapts. Next time you may want to wipe out the adaptations before each run to get a better view of what the engine is doing.

With such a small change in HP its hard to say not only whether this is a worthwile mod but also whether it does anything at all. The stock VW airbox is actually pretty well designed. Maybe we can get Lunchbox to check back with us after he drives it for awhile to give us his impression.

[Lunchbox]

I am debating if I will chees-box my stock box. But I am also looking into ABD's CAI with the help of Flash for my ECU. All still being determined with how far I want to go. If I can reach the 185-190 Hp range, I'll be happy enough. I consider this my first step into the Dub world. With tihis in mind, I do not let other things hinder me. It's all in the fun, that's all. Thanks for ythe heads up Mike and the article Brad. Catch you at Fusion...

[Lunchbox]

Hey there, I did find that after a week's worth of driving my gas actually didn't go down as much. LOL! But on the freeway I feel a bit more when I gas it. I usually never need to floor it, but just even a bit to pass up the next car I can feel a bit more pull. I'll keep posted the direction I go and the results. Yep, we shoulda had a VAG there.
The important thing for me was knowing where I am starting off from.

John "Lunchbox"

Cool review. Thaks Brad (DaygoVR6) and John (Lunchbox)!

One thing I would point out though is that no one was there with a VAG. Because the cars adapt their fuel trims over time, it could be that the car will pick up a couple horsepower after it adapts. Next time you may want to wipe out the adaptations before each run to get a better view of what the engine is doing.

With such a small change in HP its hard to say not only whether this is a worthwile mod but also whether it does anything at all. The stock VW airbox is actually pretty well designed. Maybe we can get Lunchbox to check back with us after he drives it for awhile to give us his impression.

[mike]

the only way to get 185-190HP out of a 2.0 is forced induction. I've toyed with the idea of building an all motor ABA but with a displacment increase and head work I might see 180 crank, on an 8V head, but thats after spending almost twice what a turbo kit or S/C kit would be. for about 70 less horsepower.

the 2.0 is potent motor when massaged with bolt-ons in a MK3 chassis, the MK4 is a significantly heavier car and makes mods seem uneffective on the ol' butt dyno,

you would probably have good luck with Neuspeeds S/C kit as its CA smog friendly, plug and play, and will get you close to your goal.

Swiss cheesing your airbox in your MK4 is counterproductive as it sits behind the battery and has a hole in the fenderwell thats pretty small to get air from, but atleast it isn't engine compartment air and has no real access to a fenderwell like the MK 2-3 cars, your best bet in this case would be an actual CAI, just becareful when it rains!

A very good write up and pics BTW Brad

[EDM]

The best thing would be to remove you fenderliner and take out the silencer/snowbox then run a tube from where it was stuck in your airbox down to the side grill in the front bumper. Then get one of these, connect it to the hose and mount it behind the grill. Bam you have your own cold air system.

[netnet]

Great Job!

[SSD_GTI]

The best thing would be to remove you fenderliner and take out the silencer/snowbox then run a tube from where it was stuck in your airbox down to the side grill in the front bumper. Then get one of these, connect it to the hose and mount it behind the grill. Bam you have your own cold air system.

where can we get these?

[eatsyellowsnow]

wow.... very informative article!

[paultakeda]

The best thing would be to remove you fenderliner and take out the silencer/snowbox then run a tube from where it was stuck in your airbox down to the side grill in the front bumper. Then get one of these, connect it to the hose and mount it behind the grill. Bam you have your own cold air system.

Nothing like that could get installed on my car without removing something.

And if anyone wants one, the image is from here.

[Troike]

My car sounds wicked and definately feels a bit quicker with my ghetto exhaust + intake jobber (VR6 exhaust with mid-muffler removed, swiss-cheesed box with K&N) ... cost me all of $200 total, rather than $650 just for the parts

[ToughGuy]

My car sounds wicked and definately feels a bit quicker with my ghetto exhaust + intake jobber (VR6 exhaust with mid-muffler removed, swiss-cheesed box with K&N) ... cost me all of $200 total, rather than $650 just for the parts

i guess it depends on actually giving you power compared to sounding louder, IMO

[Ivan]

Where's the dyno?
You guys remember the numbers?

I have a 3.5L bmw and I tested the stock airbox vs open throttle body.
Restriction was the same. Felt the same.

apples to oranges though. Is VWs 2.0 filter system a pile of crap or what?

[mike]

the only way to get 185-190HP out of a 2.0 is forced induction. I've toyed with the idea of building an all motor ABA but with a displacment increase and head work I might see 180 crank, on an 8V head, but thats after spending almost twice what a turbo kit or S/C kit would be. for about 70 less horsepower.

the 2.0 is potent motor when massaged with bolt-ons in a MK3 chassis, the MK4 is a significantly heavier car and makes mods seem uneffective on the ol' butt dyno,

you would probably have good luck with Neuspeeds S/C kit as its CA smog friendly, plug and play, and will get you close to your goal.

Swiss cheesing your airbox in your MK4 is counterproductive as it sits behind the battery and has a hole in the fenderwell thats pretty small to get air from, but atleast it isn't engine compartment air and has no real access to a fenderwell like the MK 2-3 cars, your best bet in this case would be an actual CAI, just becareful when it rains!

A very good write up and pics BTW Brad

Wow, this is the most back from the dead thread I have seen in awhile! How did you come up on this? Refer to my quote from 4.5 years ago!